From: Tony <theworldjog@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: World walk blog China 11
To: myworldwalk2016@gmail.com

Walking out of Lintong with Chrissy I had a bit of difficulty finding the road south towards Chongqing. I had assumed that Lintong was just a village, at best a town of a few thousand. Instead we were informed that the population was a few million, that's China.
I had decided to take route 210 after consulting with Benjamin Kniebe, a German friend who likes to keep a close eye on my route. Deeply rooted in my memory bank from a few years back I remembered a casual remark by Judi Zebedee. She is an English cyclist I met in Colombia. Back then on our roadside chat in the Andes she had mentioned that China has many  ten kilometre long tunnels. She also said that the police don't allow pedestrians through. Benjamin confirmed this on an alternate road, so that's why I decided on the longer mountainous route 210.
On the map it seemed we could easily bypass the large city of Xi'an. Somehow we got sucked into the metropolis. We didn't mind, for we enjoyed the illuminated city wall and found a nice hotel after our 37 kilometres.
Next day after a late start. My fault, for that morning I was in dire need of my head perfume. I needed my God-shots of coffee! Chrissy was excited about the walk. She is from New Zealand and working as a teacher in Wuxi, near Shanghai. She even talked about doing a 24 hour walk and breaking my daily walk record (72km) for the world walk. McDonalds  arrived just in time to change that subject 😀 So it was a case of Big Mac instead of my big mouth. I have met my walking match here I laughed.
Soon we were rambling south-west towards a national park and the mountains. That day we had hoped for fifty kilometres but settled for and pegged the tent three clicks short. We decided it was prudent to camp at a cul-de-sac at what appeared to be an abandoned house.
Then we had a tough 35 kilometre day of which the first 21 were all uphill. Many people came from their houses to greet us. We stopped in shops and struck up conversations with the help of Chrissys basic Chinese and our translate apps. As always, smiling people reached out to offer us help. Especially hot water. It seems silly drinking cold water. Chrissy bought a dozen eggs with the view to me cooking them later. She wanted to put them in her backpack but I suggested inside my fur-lined hat which was stuffed under a bungy cord on Karma. Not a good idea, for during the day several eggs broke and destroyed my hat. I needed it badly that evening.
When we stopped at one restaurant for lunch where the owners brought out a huge meal, fit for royalty. When leaving my payment was refused. The proprietor pushed my money back into my pocket and zipped it up! Despite the offer of an overnight at the restaurant we walked on as it was only 2pm. Our last 14 kilometres that day were glorious. Mostly downhill we arrived in a small town where Chrissy managed to score a cheap hotel. Actually, we think it was just a room in someone's house for there was no shower.. Agh! Scoop showers from a hot water thermos and in a cold building are only for the brave!
We took turns pushing Karma and had an easy day for almost all of our 34 km where walked on the flat and through a glorious valley with eye-popping vistas. We passed farms where people hung out corn alongside their New Years decorations, for it was the Chinese New Year's Eve. Every few kilometres we passed through mountain villages and were often surprised when rounding a bend to see another mountain with a backdrop of apartment blocks. I was told that the population of that 'village' was about 5,000. The young girl that served me in a grocery store spoke some English. She is going to university to study to be a writer. Not a journalist, she wants to be a famous writer. The New Year in China is not like our drunk fest, I am told it's more of a family event where families who have travelled long distances just want to eat and be together. That young woman was a bit sad as her father who works in construction is working on an urgent project and couldn't get home. I was impressed to see the simple erection of a crash barrier made entirely of used tyres.  I remember how some Indonesian motor shops simply burn them at the side of the road. Here is a wonderful example of intelligent use of waste being put to good use in a poor community.
That night we made it to a farmhouse and camped under the people's bike shelter. We were thankful for the duvets the owner provided. At midnight his children heralded the dawn of the New Year, the year of the rooster with a loud fireworks and banger display. It certainly frightened the bejasus out of me in the tent! I am never comfortable around fireworks.
Next morning, it was five kilometres before the first car passed us. We loved the quietness, away from city madness. However, smog and drizzle were pretty bad. Chrissy says the high pollution levels she is checking on her smart phone app is worrisome. She wears a dust mask, I rarely do as I find it difficult to breathe. I have had a bad cough and running nose for a few weeks now.
Soon, the road became slick. We came to a standstill.  A car slid off the road and I decided to change my shoes for insulated ones. For better foot grip I also put on my crampons. Chrissy walked along the muddy water drain and eventually with care we made it to safer lower ground. Along the way we passed some more villages where people had stacked logs of animal dung to be used for fuel. One had to look closely as upon first glance they resembled tree logs. Arriving in another village we were greeted by a family who wished us a Happy New Year. They told us that they had a hotel in a village which was only twenty minutes walk up the road. Their daughter, a young woman with a name sounding like Shah walked with us. She is studying Chinese alternative medicine. It's another basic hotel with, with a sink shower. As I write this in the adjoining restaurant men and women are playing domino games. 25 km today.
To me it seems the Chinese people are a contented people. Many years ago there was no middle class in this country. Today there definitely is. Many people I have spoken to over the last couple of months have said they like living in China, have no desire to travel elsewhere. They are happy they have their SUVs, electric bikes, smart phones and are not prepared to throw arrows of discontent at the dart board of affluence.
Talk soon, thanks for tuning in. Remember... Life is precious and early cancer screening saves lives.


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