Mongolia world walk blog 1

Latest: 8,738 kilometres for 212 road days. I have taken a lot of photos but am experiencing downloading problems. Hopefully, I can post them later. Also sorry for any typos as it's almost 3 am.

Mongolia has been a country which has excite me for over thirty years. The land of Ghenkis Khan, yurts and nomads tending their livestock in harsh winter conditions. 

What doesn't excite me is the money! 2,500 tengets for a euro, and for even a small amount of euro one gets huge wads of the Mongolian currency. Normally I am pretty good at conversion rates and was proud of myself at picking up a 20,000 note an saying to the banker " More or less.. Eight Euro!" 

A little later in a store I was doing what I normally do with coins, I asked the cashier to count out my notes. Yes it's a head wrecker!

The countries economy is pretty much in the toilet, it is not so long ago when it was amongst the fastest growing in the world due to a mining boom, but now with a slow down in the Chinese economy Mongolia's currency is the worst performing currency in the world. 

My first day in the country after I crossed from Russia I was so excited. The road I am walking on is narrow and could best be described as secondary, but to me anything is better than sand. I walked up a long steep mountain pass and back down again. I was headed for Suhbaatar which was an easy 24 kilometre day. 

I had planned to pay a visit to an Irish bar there but by the time my hotel sorted out the hot water for my shower it was too late and I didn't bother. 

Though there was no mention of snow in the forecast the next morning I was walking out of town in it. That day I put in a big 43 kilometre day. I was well wrapped. On my feet I wore woollen socks and waterproof running shoes that I wore in last years North Pole marathon. No laces, just pull cords which prevents water getting in. At that race they kept me warm and dry at -50C, with the wind chill factor. The race advice was to wear a base layer, a fleece and a windbreaker. You should feel just a slight chill, with experience you will gain more confidence. Too much clothing causes overheating and of course sweat can lead to hypothermia. I believe it's more problematic for the runner, however the walker still needs to be careful. I have two base layers, two fleeces a lightweight jacket and a windbreaker. I use the layer system, pulling on what I feel comfortable with. I have a selection of balaclavas, bandanas and wollen hats. And just to cover all eventualities I have two pairs of waterproof neoprene socks. On my hands I wear mitts which keep me toasty. I also have a pair of heavy duty gloves which are fur lined and I use them as a pullover my mitts to keep them dry and the wind away. I wear snow pants just about 24/7 for the only things I take off once in my sleeping bag are my shoes and windbreaker. Sometimes I use two sleeping bags, I push my summer bag inside my regular one. I sleep on a Therma-rest (Irish made) air mattress which I love. Underneath that I have a foam mat. It's important to get up as much as possible off the cold ground. I always sleep well and am never cold. 

I also pull on crampons onto my shoes. The spikes helps greatly when the road is slick.

On the road I met a German man called Andy. He is driving a camper van around the world. He gave me the most welcoming news that the Gobi desert is now warm. I look forward to that. That night I made it to a toll booth which had a nearby restaurant. There was nobody about so I just camped there. 

It took me a long while to get going next day as I waited for the chill to leave the cold morning air before I got out of my tent. I wasted so much time it's crazy. If only I could start early, I would finish earlier, a vicious circle I have tried so hard to break, but I really am a night owl at heart. My pace has dropped to between 3 and 4 km per hour as much of day I have to push Karma through slush, which is hard going. I also carry a heavy backpack. That day after 26 kilometres I made it to a small settlement which had a couple of yurts and a barking dog. I pitched my tent on the edge of their  field. In the morning a man came over to check me out blowing cigarette smoke into my tent as he spoke. Usually I have Karma parked outside and just zip up the mosquito netting so as I can keep an eye on her. 

Walking towards Darham  I had the most wonderful day. All day long I passed fields with picturesque mountain vistas. Cowboys rounded up their cattle which often strayed onto the road. There was also a herd of about forty camels which grazed in the almost barren fields. There was also the horrific sight of a dead cow surrounded by buzzards.

This is a problem for Mongolians. 

If the winter after a summer drought is harsh many people lose their herds as there is insufficient fodder for the grass can't grow in the drought. This is called a 'dzud' The situation becomes pretty dire in harsh weather where cows and sheep literally die due to the lack of nourishment as they are unable to cope. A few years ago 8 million cattle were wiped out. Farmers often have to sell their cars just to pay for extra hay. Many of these people depend totally on their livestock to survive and end up in poverty due to the harsh climatic conditions. 

Eventually, I made it to Darham and found a really nice motel.