Tuesday, January 31, 2017

China world walk blog 1 ( In China I will have limited access to internet, so posts will be sporadic and might be several days in between )  
11/21/2016

Crossing from Mongolia to China was pretty straightforward, except for putting Karma through the X-ray machine! As I walked the five kilometres towards Erenhot, the centre of the border city I enjoyed the wide boulevards with a bicycle lane. Yes, China has changed from those old images of bicycles zooming all over city streets. Now people are pretty mobile, driving SUV's and even miniature electric motorcycles, not to mention miniature cars. On the way into the city a man called Has-Erdene who was riding a sports bicycle befriended me. Normally I don't do the guide thing but I planned a rest day and didn't want to waste it getting my bits and pieces done. He gave me great help finding a bicycle shop, getting my Chinese sim and a cheap hotel. So I bought him a Kentucky Fried Dinner and gave him a few euro in Yuans. In fairness he fought hard not wanting to take it, but I insisted as I was delighted.
After my rest day it was time for me to start my China walk, I plan to walk to Xi'an, to Chongqing to Hanoi, Vietnam, about 3,200 kms/ 2,000 miles. I also plan to start easing down, well after I get to warmer weather; darn there is always a reason to keep working hard!
It seems that Erenhot is a centre for dinosaur enthusiasts as many adorned the highway. That first day I only managed 29kms as I left late and then got stopped at a police checkpoint. Although the cops were extremely courteous it was a source of annoyance that they detained me for over an hour. I waited in their office where they encouraged me to rest. A phone call was made to a fluent English speaker who told me that they wanted to drive me back to Erenhot for the night. When I objected they told me a car would be made available to return me in the morning. I still didn't want to have anything to do with this, as I worried the car would not show up. So I stood my ground and eventually I was allowed to camp behind the police office, I really thought they could have let me sleep in one of the spare bunk beds!
Next morning it was chilly but thanks to the officers I warmed up before leaving as they filled my thermos. There was a little more vegetation in this part of China, which is known as the Inner Mongolian Autonomous Province. Many people I have spoken to in the last few days feel more Mongolian. I have even been greeted with " welcome to Mongolia!"
On my second day I walked 30 kilometres and walked across the divided four-lane highway towards what looked like a sterile government building. I checked it out hoping it would be a cafe or a store and to my surprise it was a drab mini-mart. So I finished my day there. Inside the lady tallied the amount on an abacus and showed me the bill on her calculator. As there was a sit down area I made myself comfortable, charged up my devices and waited until someone asked where I was going to sleep. After showing a picture of my tent to the lady behind the counter, she nodded, I could camp on the veranda.
The mornings were becoming increasingly cold and I find it difficult to get going early. My hard shoulder, a full lane, a paved four-metre lane continued for 104 kilometres. It was joy while it lasted. Then on Sunday I only walked 17 kilometres and stopped at a Sinola petrol station in Saihan Tal. I stopped for so long that in the end I just asked if I could sleep on my air mattress in the kitchen. Instead, I was given a room with a bed and a heater. Luxury! Monday, it was cold, so cold I don't take any photos anymore, besides the scenery is not as interesting as Mongolia, it could be Nebraska, at its worst!
Except that a few trees appeared for a while. That day I made great progress and walked 49 kilometres. I walked the second part of my day pretty fast as it was becoming increasing cold. Later I discovered the temperature was -17 with a wind chill factor equivalent of -23. I kept myself well hydrated. However, every time I took a drink it went straight through me. I have to loss so much and with the wind changing direction and whizzing trucks it's not uncommon to piss on my outer snow pants! Within seconds this turns to a piss icicle! Eventually, I made it to Zhurihe with dribbles from my balaclava quickly freezing it to my face. I had to stick a sock as a temporary warming pad to keep my left ear warm. I made my way to a hotel and was refused. Many cyclists have told me this happens in China and as I used their WC I noted that a lot of rooms were vacant for their doors were open for viewing. The startled lady said something like that she hadn't got the power to register me there. Luckily their was another one a couple of hundred metres away. Stupidly I didn't cover up my face and by the time I arrived my nose had almost freeze dried!
It was a fancy hotel. To me that means a credit card accepted, a card for the door lock and light switch. I was thankful for it and though I was over the proverbial barrel I still bargained for it. I never ever take the first price I am offered. They requested 120 Yuans (7 to the euro) I wrote down 80 and was pleasantly surprised when she said 100! Then when I pulled out a couple of hundred Yuans they tried to say.. " per person an it's a two bed room!"
No way! I stood my ground and got it for 100. Just goes to show always bargain for a hotel room, most times I get something cheaper than first quoted.

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