My world walk blog part two China #32
11th October I arrived in smoggy Maoling
which I was told is a small Chinese city of about six million. I needed
to have some work done on Karmas wheels and also have a rest as it had
been a tough week and I was feeling a bit emotionally drained.
Sometimes
hotels can be tough to find in China, so I jumped on the first one I
came across. In the ideal world, it would be nice to check out the room
before I parted with my money but it's a bit of an ask for the worker to
escort me to and from the room when it is on the sixth floor and the
hotel has no elevator. Still, I should have known better as the cost was
only two and half Euro. I just wasn't in form for further tramping
around the city that day. It was more of a doss house with small grubby
rooms and little privacy for there was a hand-sized gap at the top of
the wall. The light from my room had my neighbour knocking on my door
telling me to turn my light off and it wasn't even eight o'clock. The
shower was filthy and I stayed clean by not using it. I also used my
seeking bag.
I was tempted to forfeit my money and go off looking elsewhere but I just stayed put.
When I have a safe place I usually leave my passport in the room when going out to dinner, but not there.
Saturday
I went down the road and found a nice place for my rest day. I don't
like to sit around in squalor on my days of leisure, I work hard enough
to deserve better.
Then I
had to find a bicycle shop on Google Maps. That was challenging and not
to mention a lot of footing it around for Google seemed to lump every
motorcycle shop into a bicycle category. However, on the fourth attempt,
I lucked it out when I found the German Bicycle Shop. Earlier I also
had to track down a hardware store to purchase some washers. Reason for
that is because several spoke heads had busted their way through the
rim. So the washers were to put on the spokes to prevent this. It's a
specialised pop-off wheel which has its own shaft. This usually has
bicycle shops flummoxed when it comes to alignment as it doesn't fit on
the alignment rig they use. However, I have been there before and it can
be aligned in a workshop vice, and that's how the man managed. Cost,
less than a Euro and I had a hard time getting him to accept my tip.
Next
day I was on the road for 31 kilometres to Xiadong and for the second
time in a few days a bridge was impassable and I had another long detour
along some quaint backroads. I presume this didn't show up on Google
Maps as closed because Google is banned in China and perhaps they don't
have the latest local information. As mentioned before I can use it and
the similarity banned Facebook because I have a VPN installed on my
phone. This is essentially an unblocker. If anything happens to my phone
and I need to get a new one, then I won't have a VPN and will have
major communication hassle. I have heard that despite the Google ban
that the company still have 600 staff based in China. There is also talk
of legalising Google Maps if stuff like churches are removed from their
China maps. It's also been reported that Google is working on a
compromise search engine (from memory I believe its called Dragon Fly)
for the Chinese government. All of the usual sensitive stuff like human
rights and religion will be removed. This project has many Google staff
and rights watch groups up in arms.
Then
I walked on through a village where a dog was up on a table waiting to
be sectioned and cooked. I'm sure I've eaten dog before, God knows what
else I have eaten. The golden rule in China is not to ask what one is
eating for they make everything tasty. Recently I read a report that the
Chinese government and also the Vietnamese are starting to disfavour
the eating of dog meat. This is not only because of bad tourism
publicity but because the first cases of rabies have occurred from the
consumption of dog meat
That
day I also stopped at a scrap yard to see if I could pick up a couple
of spare 20-inch wheels for Karma as the ones I have are a bit dodgy.
Previously I mentioned that I was thinking of picking up old 20-inch
wheels and doing a respoking job. The problem is that the spoke count is
different and my hub which is about a thumb length and is also smaller
than the standard ones on child bicycle wheels. However having looked at
so many wheels over the last few months in bicycle shops I have noticed
that there is a hard to find size that is about a centimetre longer
than mine. My latest idea was to look for one in a scrap yard and find
an angle grinder to modify it!
So
that's what I did and the staff there couldn't be more obliging. I
actually picked up two spare wheels and a nice man used a pencil grinder
to remove a lip so as my shaft could fit in. Then using an angle
grinder he ground down the outside hub walls so as the wheels could fit
onto Karma! It worked a treat. And then they treated me to lunch in
their canteen!
I had a
nice Google translate chat with them before I left and they mention that
work every day collecting and sorting scrap and never get a day off.
One of them showed me a translated message saying that it was their
pleasure to help me that it was fun (please see photo) And of course no
charge for the work. The Chinese are such wonderful people.
Then
I marched on to my finish in Xiadong and had more hassle trying to find
accom. After a while, four young lads escorted me to a pricey hotel and
when I indicated that I would rather pitch my tent they found me a
really spacious apartment in a building which was behind a clothing
shop. The storekeeper seemed to be acting as a broker and then after I
handed over my equivalent of eight Euro I had a ten-minute wait for the
apartment block owner to escort me to the apartment.
Then
the young lads who told me that they were all 15-year-olds carried my
stuff up to my room and then lit up cigarettes in the room! Ah yes,
China, I just love it!
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